Seaweed farming in Zanzibar

Last week I saw an article about fascinating satellite photos of seaweed farms in South Korea. These stunning photos are from the NASA Goddard Space Flight Center (and there are more on their Flickr stream).

Seaweed farms in South Korea as seen from space
Seaweed farms in South Korea as seen from space

It immediately reminded me of the seaweed farms I saw when I was in Zanzibar last year. Rifling through my pictures from that trip I found that small-scale seaweed farms are visible in most of the pictures I took at the beach! Here, for example, behind the dhows (wooden boats):

Seaweed farms in Zanzibar, Tanzania
Seaweed farms in Zanzibar, Tanzania

Tides on the Eastern side of Zanzibar completely drain the water from the beach every 12 hours, so the seaweed is tethered to strings and pegged to the sea floor using the little sticks you see in the background. I remember being impressed by the simplicity and cleverness of the farms.

Falling seaweed exports from Zanzibar

Sadly, according to a 2014 BBC report entitled Seaweed – Zanzibar’s ‘gift from the ocean’, seaweed exports from Zanzibar have declined in the last few years. This is especially saddening because the industry was at one time supporting 23,000 people — 90% of whom were women!

Doha by night

Another layover in Doha, Qatar, another visit to Souq Waqif! What more could you want than delicious food, new buildings made to look old, and a beautiful night sky?

Doha's Souq Waqif by night
Doha’s Souq Waqif by night

There’s probably more to see in Doha (and indeed Qatar) than this, but I just get too many weird vibes from this country to ever go and find anything more.

A thinly veiled facade

Despite the veneer it’s all pretty obviously fake, a facade created to conceal a rich1, conservative2 society with the institutionalized subjugation of women and a poor track record on the rights of immigrant laborers.

It seems Qatar is trying REALLY hard to divest their economy from petroleum and natural gas, or perhaps they’re trying to create a new image for their country ahead of the 2022 World Cup.

Nevertheless, the grilled chicken, hummus, and shisha are delicious, and that’s enough for me.


[1] Qatar is the world’s richest country per person when adjusted for Purchasing Power Parity. Source: Wikipedia contributors, “Qatar,” Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia, (accessed April 12, 2015).

[2] After Saudi Arabia, Qatar is the most conservative society in the GCC as most Qataris adhere to the strict Wahhabi interpretation of Islam. Source: Wikipedia contributors, “Qatar,” Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia, (accessed April 12, 2015).

The “most intelligent” city in Africa

CNN reports on the news that Nairobi has been ranked, apparently for the second year in a row, as the “most intelligent” city in Africa.

According to the Intelligent Community Forum, “intelligent communities” are those that have taken “conscious steps” to create an economy that can prosper in the “broadband economy.”

Well that’s definitely misleading: it’s not about intellectual intelligence. The forum merely considers the fact that Nairobi has relatively fast/cheap broadband, incubators for tech startups, and the ability to pay for stuff everywhere using our phones. Yeah, it does. Shrug.

So what?

The reality is that Nairobi is corrupt, dangerous, dirty, and expensive. I don’t think it’s any consolation to Nairobi’s denizens that their city is “intelligent.” Nairobi also has one of the most “painful” commutes of any city in the world. And the insecurity in Nairobbery obviously contributed to Kenya’s abysmal ranking in the 2014 crime index.

All of that doesn’t just stop being important because we can stream YouTube videos without buffering! We should be focusing on metrics that matter, like the Human Development Index or the Global Peace Index.

A Bulgarian Christmas

In my experience a Bulgarian Christmas is family, food, and snow — all in large portions. To be fair, minus the snow, that pretty much describes any time of year in Bulgaria! Allow me to elaborate (and share a few specifics)…


For the purposes of this list family and food are one in the same; recipes and traditions about food are passed down from generation to generation, and food is enjoyed together.

Apparently, according to traditions in Eastern Orthodox Christianity, people are supposed to forgo animal products like meat, eggs, milk, cheese, etc for forty days before Christmas. In practice (and probably more so in urban areas) it seems like people generally only do this on Christmas eve.

On Christmas-eve we had a rather plain looking loaf of bread, baked with only wheat, water, and yeast. At the time I remember it being delicious, but it obviously pales in comparison to the Christmas-day loaf on the right which was baked with eggs, milk, and butter.

Other favorites of mine were pickled red peppers, pumpkin banitsa, and walnut baklava. All meals were accompanied by home-made wine (of which I was told there were 200 liters in storage!). It shouldn’t come as a surprise that my salad-only diet starts today!

A not-so-snowy Christmas?

Much to my surprise, there was no snow when I arrived in Sofia a few days before Christmas. Quite the contrary! The sun was generally out and during the day it was uncharacteristically nice to walk around, have coffee, etc.

After Christmas we went into the mountains to ski and snowboard and there was no snow there either; the trees and grass around our cabin in Borovets were green and the roads were all clean and tidy. Surely this isn’t Bulgaria in winter?!

… and just like that the cabin (and indeed the entire country) was covered in snow. After an afternoon on the slopes and an evening lounging around the cabin, we peeked outside and found several inches of snow covering everything in sight! Quite a transformation…

Snowboarding above the clouds

As terrifying as it was driving on the slender, freshly-snowed-upon-and-then-melted mountain roads, I was glad “winter” had arrived. The next morning it was like the slopes had been reborn. Fresh powder — and more falling from the sky!

The Yastrebets gondola takes you 2300 meters up into the Rila mountains, and when the visibility is good you can see the clouds underneath which Borovets and Sofia are sitting — from above! It’s spectacular (and sidetracking!) to navigate the slopes with such a view.

Snowboarding above the clouds!
Snowboarding above the clouds!

When are you going to Bulgaria?

Bulgaria is beautiful, the food is delicious, and it’s cheap! It was even named one of the top ten countries to visit in 2014 by Rough Guides.

Bulgaria was listed in Rough Guide's Top 10 Countries to visit in 2014
Bulgaria was listed in Rough Guide’s Top 10 Countries to visit in 2014

So, when are you going to Bulgaria?